Part 1: A 10-Day Czechia Road Trip Itinerary: Prague, Castles & Spa Towns

Cesky Krumlov

(Yes, It’s More Than Just Prague)

Let me start with this: Prague is as beautiful and atmospheric as everyone says — and as crowded. We’d been before, years ago, when our teenage son was still willing to travel with us (or at least tolerate our presence in public). We did the classics: gawked at the Astronomical Clock, shuffled across the Charles Bridge with the rest of humanity, and on a whim, climbed a massive staircase on the other side of the river, assuming it led to a peaceful public garden.

It didn’t.

It led us straight into the Prague Castle grounds via an accidentally unlocked gate. By the time we realized we were inside a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we’d basically given ourselves a self-guided palace tour — free of charge and entirely unintentional.

Getting Lost (On Purpose) in Prague

This time around, we skipped the climb and let ourselves get happily lost in the cobblestone lanes of Old Town Prague, surrounded by gothic spires, intricate stonework, and centuries-old buildings that practically dare you to look up.

If you’re putting together a Prague itinerary, don’t worry about ticking off every must-see. Sometimes, the magic is just in letting the city happen to you — one crooked alleyway and surprise courtyard at a time.

Meet TicTack, Our Noble Steed

That was the name we gave our compact, blue-and-white rental — a tiny vehicle with the heart of a champion and the turning radius of a shopping cart. Armed with Google Maps and cautious optimism, we navigated Prague’s labyrinth of roads during rush hour and finally found the outskirts of the city, where traffic thinned and the Czech countryside opened up like a green fairytale.

Into the Woods (and the 14th Century)

Now, you might be wondering where we’re headed. Our first real stop? Karlovy Vary — also known by its old German name, Karlsbad, because this famous spa town in Czechia has been luring wealthy bathers and suspiciously enthusiastic physicians since the 14th century.

Legend has it that Charles IV himself (yes, the Holy Roman Emperor, not your friend’s cousin from Brno) discovered the thermal springs while out hunting. The story goes that his injured hunting dog stumbled into a hot geyser and came out miraculously healed. Naturally, Charles did what any ruler with access to architects and gold would do: he built a spa empire around it.

We stayed for two nights so we could explore the colonnades, try the famous spa experiences, and wander the forested walking trails that wrap around the hills. It’s the kind of place that rewards slow travel — and rewards your joints, too.

Not Here for the Legends — Here for the Baths

But me? I wasn’t here to soak in medieval legends. I was here for the baths, the colonnades, and the kind of mineral water that smells faintly like eggs and promises to fix everything from indigestion to heartbreak.

From City Streets to Countryside Calm

We didn’t expect much from the drive. Honestly, we figured it would just be a means to an end — get out of the city, find the spa town, maybe stop for coffee (maybe…yes, stop for coffee!). But then the landscape started doing that quiet, scenic thing that doesn’t shout “Look at me!” — it just gently reminds you that green fields and sleepy villages are sometimes exactly what you need.

The road was mostly flat and easygoing, like a nicely ironed shirt — smooth, neat, and oddly comforting. Small farms and compact villages popped up now and then, and the whole thing felt strangely meditative and calming. Then, just before we were lulled into a pastoral bucolic trance, the road dipped — dramatically — into a thick, forested gully. Trees tightened around us. Curves sharpened. And then, just beyond the bend, something magical started to happen: rooftops. Ornate, colourful, almost storybook-like. It was like entering a different century through a side door.

Karlovy Vary: Fancy Water, Fancier Buildings

Karlovy Vary is the kind of place where you half-expect a string quartet to start playing as you round a corner. It’s all pastel facades, elegant columns, and cobblestone promenades running alongside the Teplá River — like a postcard that somehow came to life. The town smells faintly of sulfur and pastries, and oddly, that works.

Tiny Mugs and Thermal Sips

One of the main activities here? Drinking warm mineral water from tiny spouted mugs that look like teapots made for dolls. Locals swear by the health benefits — everything from better digestion to eternal youth. We stuck to a few cautious sips and didn’t transform into spa zombies, so we’ll call that a win.

Public drinking fountains offer the spa water for free and you’ll find them dotted throughout the town. Just grab one of those doll-sized mugs from a souvenir stand and sip like a local.

When Hollywood Shows Up in a Bathrobe

Film buffs might recognize Karlovy Vary from Casino Royale — though it cheekily doubled as Montenegro. Every summer, the town trades its bathrobes for black-tie at the Karlovy Vary International Film Festival, where movie stars and spa-goers cross paths in a way that feels bizarrely natural. If your trip lines up with July, check their official schedule - I’m told it’s worth planning around.

And if cinema isn’t your thing, there's also a Jazz Festival, food and wine events, and year-round spa escapes if you’re in the mood for a mud wrap and some questionable tea.

Living the Fairytale at Hluboká nad Vltavou

Leaving the lush green gully of Karlovy Vary, we set off towards our next fairytale experience: a castle stay at Hotel Štekl in Hluboká nad Vltavou. Pronouncing the town's name might be a challenge, but staying here is nothing short of magical.

Our room was stunning, offering a panoramic view over the valley that made me feel like Rapunzel (sans the long hair). If you've ever dreamed of feeling like royalty, this is the place to do it. Not only is Hotel Štekl a castle in its own right, but it also neighbours the grand Hluboká Castle, to which we had complete access. Each evening, as day tourists departed, we took our wine glasses and bottle of wine, strolled over to the main castle grounds to watch the sun set over the valley, feeling every bit the lord and lady of the manor.

A Brief History of Hluboká Castle

Hluboká Castle's origins date back to the mid-13th century when it was established as a royal guard castle. Over the centuries, it underwent several transformations: from a Gothic fortress to a Renaissance chateau under the Lords of Hradec, and later to a Baroque residence. In the 19th century, inspired by England's Windsor Castle, Prince Johann Adolf II of Schwarzenberg commissioned a Romantic Neo-Gothic reconstruction, resulting in the castle's current fairy-tale appearance. Surrounded by a vast English-style park, Hluboká Castle is now considered one of the most beautiful castles in Czechia.

A Day Trip to Český Krumlov: Where Fairytales Go to Retire

From Hluboká, we made the easy day trip to Český Krumlov, another town that looks like it was built by set designers for a fantasy movie. We’d been before (shoutout to Rick Steves for the original tip), but it’s so charming that we couldn’t resist a return visit. And here’s a tip for you, if you’re driving, parking can be tricky in high season, so we recommend arriving early or staying overnight so you can enjoy the quiet mornings.

Just when you think you’ve seen the most picturesque village possible, you drive 30 minutes and find yourself somewhere even more storybook-perfect. Český Krumlov is wrapped in the bends of the Vltava River, giving the whole town a natural moat. The 13th-century castle perched above the old town has its own bear moat (yes, really), and the colourful buildings, cobblestone streets, and cute little cafés are practically begging to be part of your photos — or your screensaver.

In the summer, you can even float down the river in an inflatable raft, drink in hand, dragging your cooler behind you like a proper river pirate. And don’t worry, if you run out of beer or wine, just pull over to the banks of the river and you’ll find entrepreneurial locals have set up make-shift wooden bars to supply you with all the Czechvar beer, wine and ice cream you could possibly need to complete your rafting adventures.  It’s the kind of place where time slows down and your iPhone camera fills up way too quickly.

A Little History on Český Krumlov

First mentioned in 1253, Český Krumlov flourished under the Rosenberg family during the Renaissance. Its architecture is a patchwork of medieval, Baroque, and Renaissance styles, all remarkably preserved thanks to the town's designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town remained relatively untouched during World War II, allowing its original charm to survive the 20th century intact.

But the real surprise came in the second half of our trip — wine country. South Moravia’s rolling vineyards, baroque palaces, and medieval towns offered a totally different side of Czechia, and we fell in love all over again.

What’s Next: Wine Country & Aristocratic Surprises

Coming up in Part 2: We didn’t expect the Czech countryside to give us Versailles vibes, but South Moravia had other plans. Rolling vineyards, fairytale towns, and one aristocratic surprise after another — stay tuned for Part 2!