Part 2: A Czechia Road-Trip Through Wine Country to Mikulov (the one with the nod to Versailles and a flashback to the Cold War)

Mikulov, Czechia

After one more magical evening pretending to be queen of the castle and promenading through the palace grounds, our trusty steed TicTack (our blue and white rental) was saddled up again and pointed southeast. We cruised through South Bohemia’s quieter roads, where getting stuck behind a tractor or a Czech caravan that looked like a prairie schooner on its last legs somehow only added to the charm. No rush — this leg was about soaking in the slower countryside.

Telč, Czechia

Hidden Gems: Telč and Třeboň

We made time for a few more detours — stopping in Telč and Třeboň — both towns that seem like they’ve been bottled in time. If you're seeking hidden gems in Czechia or off-the-beaten-path Czech towns, these are two you'll want to pin. Picture Renaissance facades in Telč’s main square and lakeside serenity in Třeboň, once a royal fishing hub and still lined with historical fishponds that date back to the 14th century. Třeboň is also known for its traditional spa culture — including mud baths that promise to ease everything from arthritis to post-road trip fatigue. We didn’t try one this time, but it’s officially on the list for next round.

Welcome to Wine Country: Mikulov

Then we rolled into Mikulov, nestled right in the heart of South Moravian wine country. No castle sleepover this time, though the Baroque castle perched on the hill certainly begged for a moment of rubbernecking. We checked into Pension Baltazar, a cozy spot right in town, and spent the next few days sipping beer and wine, eating well, and climbing Svatý Kopeček (Holy Hill) — a grassy rise overlooking the town that rewards you with sweeping vineyard views and a peaceful little chapel at the summit.

Mikulov has long been a cultural crossroads — once a key stop along trade routes between Brno and Vienna, and historically home to a vibrant Jewish community. That legacy still echoes through its cobbled lanes and quiet corners. But today, it’s all about good wine, slow afternoons, and the kind of views that make you want to press pause. Mikulov became our home base for exploring the region, and it turned out to be the perfect launchpad for a few wildly unexpected day trips.

Muzeum Železné Opony, Valtice Czechia

A Cold War Time Warp and a Surprise Border Hop

On one of our day trips from Mikulov, we set out in search of the Kolonáda Reistna, a neoclassical monument we'd seen mentioned online, with directions that were roughly equivalent to, “Drive south until the vineyards run out or the road signs start speaking German.”

As we cruised along a particularly empty stretch of road near Valtice, things took a turn. One minute we were admiring the landscape, the next we were squinting at a hulking, half-ruined building that looked like it had been plucked straight from a Cold War film set. Razor wire? Check. Creaky guard box beside the road? Check. Giant pole with no obvious purpose? Triple check.

We stopped, puzzled, and peered into the eerily quiet open guard box — a perfect spot to imagine being interrogated by a ghostly border patrol officer with a penchant for rubber stamping paper visas. The building had no signs, no people, no hint of life. Just an air of abandonment and unease, as if everyone simply got up one day and never came back.

It turns out we had accidentally stumbled upon the Muzeum Železné Opony — the Iron Curtain Museum — though nothing about it from the outside suggested it was anything other than a forgotten Cold War relic. It was closed (or hiding), and the whole place looked less like a museum and more like an accidental time portal.

To make things even more surreal, in our dazed state of post-Cold-War confusion, we realized we had — without noticing — ever-so-slightly driven over the Austrian border. This is, as it happens, a big no-no in the world of car rental agreements. Cue a swift, slightly panicked U-turn, accompanied by a muttered apology to our car insurance policy, and a quick scan to make sure no Austrian customs agents were about to descend from the hills.

Kolonáda Reistna, Valtice Czechia

Kolonáda Reistna: A Monument, a March, and a Musical Surprise

With TicTack safely back on Czech soil, we parked near the now clearly-abandoned border gate and found a crumbling old road leading uphill. Naturally, we followed it. After a short, quiet walk (interrupted only by the occasional rustle of wind through Iron Curtain ghosts), we reached the Kolonáda Reistna.

This neoclassical colonnade sits dramatically on the border ridge flanked by trees on one side and a stunning rolling hills view on the other. Commissioned in the early 1800s by Prince Johann I of Liechtenstein as a memorial to his father and brothers, it’s all very Roman Empire meets Downton Abbey — grand, symmetrical, and inexplicably perched in what felt like the middle of nowhere.

Fun fact: during the Cold War, the colonnade doubled as a military lookout for border patrol. Because nothing says “national defense” like posting guards beside a neoclassical monument meant to honour your family tree.

But the real surprise came moments after we arrived. Out of nowhere, a group of Czech high school students bounded up the hill, plopped down a Bluetooth speaker, and — without warning — broke into a full choreographed routine to "We Go Together" from Grease. It was, without question, the strangest ambush we’ve ever experienced. There, under the watchful eyes of Liechtenstein marble busts, teens in Converse sneakers swung and shimmied across the grass in front of this ancient monument.

One moment we were pondering war, peace, and the weight of history — the next, we were in a full-on 1950s musical finale. Pure magic.

Lednice, Czechia

Day Trip: Lednice, the Versailles of the East

Another one of our favourite day trips from here was to Lednice, the Versailles of the East, because honestly? That’s exactly what it felt like.

The sprawling estate at Lednice was once the Liechtenstein family’s summer playground, transformed over the centuries into an over-the-top Neo-Gothic wonder. You’ve got a riverside castle, extravagant gardens, a full-blown minaret tucked into the grounds (no, really), and if you don’t want to walk to the minaret, you can take a lazy river cruise that floats you past landscaped lawns and romantic ruins. We wandered for hours — no crowds, no stress, just a pleasant kind of beauty around every corner.

Lednice isn’t just for castle-chasers — it’s for anyone who wants to walk through a storybook and not be entirely sure where the pages end and real life begins.

Farewell TicTack — and Czechia, For Now

With a slightly heavy heart, we said goodbye to TicTack in Brno, Czechia’s second-largest city and our final stop — but only in a logistical sense. We didn’t linger in Brno, as we were catching a train straight to Vienna, but it served us well as the perfect point to wrap up our 10-day Czech road trip.

And what a road trip it was.

Before this journey, I’ll admit besides Prague and Český Krumlov, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. But what we did discover far exceeded our expectations. Driving in Czechia turned out to be a breeze — great roads, spectacular scenery, respectful drivers, and Google Maps that didn’t lead us astray once (not even down a goat path or through a farmer’s yard — looking at you, Crete). The highways are extremely well-maintained, and the scenic countryside routes made even our slowest, most meandering days feel like part of a grand adventure.

What surprised us most, though, was just how underrated Czechia is as a travel destination once you step outside Prague’s postcard frame. This country is rich in history, dotted with fairytale towns, and filled with absolutely stunning landscapes— from spa cities to vineyard valleys to castle-dotted horizons.

If you're even thinking about exploring Central Europe, Czechia deserves a spot on your list. I’d go back in a heartbeat.

Up Next: The Full Itinerary Breakdown

Ready to retrace our route or plan your own Czech adventure? In the final post of this series, I’ll break down our full 10-day Czechia road trip itinerary — complete with where we stayed, what we loved, what we’d do differently, and must-see stops in every region we visited. Whether you’re dreaming of castles, countryside drives, or slow afternoons in wine country, you’ll have everything you need to start planning your own unforgettable journey through Czechia.

Plus, I’ll include a free downloadable PDF so you can save or share your trip inspiration anytime. See you in Part 3!