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- Part 3: A 10-Day Czechia Road Trip Itinerary Taking You Through Fairytale Towns, Castles, Spa Towns, And Wine Country — Beyond Just Prague.
*If you’re short on time, the condensed 10-day itinerary with accommodation links is listed below. * Prague, Czechia Where your trip begins and your step count explodes. We kicked off our Czech road trip in Prague, the city of spires, beer, and more history per square meter than seems entirely reasonable. Our home base was Hotel Černý Slon , a charming boutique stay tucked just off Old Town Square in a building that predates Canada by several centuries. It’s quiet, central, and yes, walkable from the train station (if you packed light or enjoy cobblestone cardio). Looking for Prague hotel alternatives? Try Týn Yard Residence , another 4-star option right by the main square. What to Do & See in Prague There is so much to see, but let’s start in Old Town, where every corner feels like it’s auditioning for a period drama. Don’t miss the Astronomical Clock, it's best to show up on the hour for the medieval mechanical show (and about 200 camera phones). From there, stroll across Charles Bridge, ideally early in the day to dodge the crowds. Across the river, venture up to endless stairs to explore Prague Castle — we went with the self-guided ticket, a solid choice, though a proper guide would’ve helped us connect the dots a bit faster. Afterward, get pleasantly lost in Malá Strana’s winding streets. Pop into any pub (seriously, it’s hard to go wrong here) and enjoy a beer that probably costs less than your bottled water. Still have energy? Add a Vltava River cruise to your itinerary (on our “next time” list), or climb the Old Town Hall Tower for some stunning city views. Also flagged for next time: the historic monasteries and a classical music concert in one of the chapels near Old Town. Karlovy Vary: Czechia’s Most Famous Spa Town Come for the healing waters, stay because your legs are jelly from all the spa time. From the buzz of Prague, we detoured into the land of slow living: Karlovy Vary, Czechia’s premier spa town, where even the rivers seem to glide at half-speed. We stayed at Spa Resort Sanssouci , which felt like a 1950s-era hotel, was just a 15-minute stroll from the center along a tree-lined path that looked like it was made for leisurely afternoons and unhurried conversations. While the room decor gave off vintage Eastern European vibes, the award-winning spa facilities are truly world-class. We're talking 50+ health professionals, including physicians, physiotherapists, nurses, and massage therapists, ready to recalibrate your very soul. We opted for the mineral pools, saunas, and thermal baths — low effort, high reward. Grandpupp Hotel, Karlovy Vary If you prefer something more private and luxurious, Villa Julius a Emma offers boutique serenity just next door to Spa Resort Sanssouci. Or if you prefer to be in town, go full Bond villain at Grandhotel Pupp (yes, Casino Royale was filmed there). We popped in for afternoon tea, and I may or may not have channelled my inner Vesper Lynd in the elevator. It’s that kind of place. Another top-tier choice is Spa Hotel Imperial , perched high above the town with views as pampering as the treatments inside (or so I’m told). What to Do & See Spa towns aren’t built for rushing. Start with a leisurely walk down the main promenade of Karlovy Vary, flanked by historic colonnades, bubbling mineral springs, and enough spa shops to rehydrate your skin and deplete your wallet. Not into facials and mud wraps? No problem, Karlovy Vary is also a gateway to Czechia’s forest spas, otherwise know as hiking. Lace up for one of the town’s 180+ km of scenic routes. We took the Diana Lookout Tower and Deer Leap trails. Bonus : you can ride the funicular up and hike down, landing conveniently back in town where celebratory pints await. A “forest spa” might not be listed in the brochures, but it should be. Hluboká nad Vltavou & Český Krumlov From spa jellyfish to storybook royalty in under two hours. After our time soaking in mineral pools like vacationing sea creatures, it was time to don our metaphorical tiaras and head to Hluboká nad Vltavou, where the castle looks like it was plucked straight from a Disney storyboard, if Disney had a thing for Czech Baroque Gothic Revival. We stayed at Hotel Štekl , (pictured above) a castle-adjacent property that manages to be both regal and cozy. The rooms are grand, the views sweeping, and yes, there’s even more spa pampering if you haven’t quite had your fill. Honestly, this is where you come to channel your inner Rapunzel (preferably without the hair-related drama). If Hotel Štekl is booked, head straight to Český Krumlov, a UNESCO World Heritage site that feels like it’s been preserved under a glass dome. Consider staying at the charming Garni Hotel Castle Bridge , the historic Hotel Krčínův Dům , or the cozy Guest House Olšakovský for a more budget-conscious stay. What to Do & See In Hluboká nad Vltavou, don’t miss the castle tour, it’s the town’s main event. Later, grab a bottle of local South Bohemian wine and relax in the castle gardens at sunset. In Český Krumlov, visit the State Castle and Château, feed the bears, then wander the cobblestone streets with a free walking tour to discover how every building has at least three historical footnotes. Wrap it all up with a canoe float down the Vltava River through Maleček Rafting & Canoe, where you’ll paddle past medieval towers, rustic pop-up wooden bars selling beer, and the occasional duck that have clearly seen some things. Mikulov (with detours to Třeboň & Telč) Where wine meets wellness, and castles meet countryside. On the way to Mikulov, we stopped in two charming towns: Třeboň: A spa town known for its peat mud baths. Check out treatments at Hotel Zlatá Hvězda , right in the town square. Třeboň also boasts an extensive network of artificial lakes for fish farming, originally created in the 13th century and still operational today. Telč: Yet another UNESCO-listed town with a stunning Renaissance square. Great spot for a mid-day coffee. Arriving in Mikulov, we found a quieter charm and a perfect base for South Moravia. We stayed at Pension Baltazar , a 3-star guesthouse with views of the Holy Hill (Svatý Kopeček) above us and the Moravian valley below. Next door: the equally charming Boutique Hotel Templ . Pension Baltazar, Mikulov What to Do & See in Mikulov Hike Holy Hill: From bed to summit in 40 minutes. A gentle hike with panoramic views of South Moravia. Day Trips from Mikulov: Lednice Castle: ~20 minutes by car Château Valtice: ~12 minutes by car Reistna Kolonnade: ~15 minutes, near Valtice, with sweeping views over the vineyards This road trip through Czechia easily ranks among our favourite travel experiences. It was a perfect mix of castles, countryside, spa days, and storybook towns that felt worlds away from the usual tourist trail. The further from Prague we went, the bigger the adventure became! Prague might draw the crowds, but the real magic happens when you venture off the beaten path and you find yourself winding through Bohemian country roads, stumbling upon hilltop castles, and soaking in spa towns you’ve never heard of but won’t soon forget. If you’ve ever considered visiting Czechia (or hadn’t until now), take this as your sign to go. And if you want help crafting a route that fits your style, I’d love to build a custom itinerary just for you. Have you been to Czechia and ventured outside the city limits of Prague? What was your favourite place to visit? Leave your list of favourites in the comments below. 🇨🇿 10-Day Czechia Road Trip Itinerary 1–3 Days: Prague 🛏️ Where We Stayed : Hotel Černý Slon - Old Town (4 ⭐️ ) 💡 Alternative Accommodations : Týn Yard Residence - Old Town (4 ⭐️ ) Top Things to Do: Explore Old Town Square & Astronomical Clock Cross Charles Bridge at sunrise/sunset (both are magical) Visit Prague Castle & St. Vitus Cathedral Enjoy a Vltava River cruise or a viewpoint from Letná Park Grab drinks in Malá Strana or hidden courtyards in New Town 2 Days: Karlovy Vary 🛏️ Where We Stayed : Spa Resort Sanssouci (4 ⭐️ ) 💡 Alternative Luxury Options : Grandhotel Pupp (5 ⭐️ ) or Spa Hotel Imperial (5 ⭐️ ) Top Things to Do: Stroll the colonnades and drink from the mineral springs Take a spa day: mineral bath, sauna, massage or book a whole Ride the funicular to Diana Tower, hike back down Forest hikes: Deer Leap or Goethe's Lookout Coffee or cocktails at Grandhotel Pupp 2-3 Days: Hluboká nad Vltavou & Český Krumlov 🛏️ Where We Stayed : Hluboká : Hotel Štekl (4 ⭐️ ) 💡 Alternative Accommodations in Český Krumlov : Garni Hotel Castle Bridge (4 ⭐️), or Hotel Krčínův Dům (4 ⭐️) a great alternative Top Things to Do: Hluboká nad Vltavou : Tour the romantic Hluboká Castle Stroll castle gardens or nearby lake Český Krumlov : Visit Český Krumlov Castle & Tower Raft the Vltava River Explore the UNESCO-listed old town Sunset views from the hill above the castle 2 Days: Mikulov (via Třeboň & Telč) 🛏️ Where We Stayed : Pension Baltazar (3 ⭐️) 💡 Alternative Accommodations: Boutique Hotel Templ (3 ⭐️) En Route Highlights: T ř ebo ň: Spa town with carp ponds & castle square Tel č: UNESCO-listed town with a pastel Renaissance square Mikulov & Surroundings: Hike Holy Hill (Svatý Kopeček) Visit Mikulov Castle & wine museum Day trips to: Lednice Castle & gardens Valtice Chateau and Reistna Colonnade
- Part 2: A Czechia Road-Trip Through Wine Country to Mikulov (the one with the nod to Versailles and a flashback to the Cold War)
Mikulov, Czechia After one more magical evening pretending to be queen of the castle and promenading through the palace grounds, our trusty steed TicTack (our blue and white rental) was saddled up again and pointed southeast. We cruised through South Bohemia’s quieter roads, where getting stuck behind a tractor or a Czech caravan that looked like a prairie schooner on its last legs somehow only added to the charm. No rush — this leg was about soaking in the slower countryside. Telč, Czechia Hidden Gems: Telč and Třeboň We made time for a few more detours — stopping in Telč and Třeboň — both towns that seem like they’ve been bottled in time. If you're seeking hidden gems in Czechia or off-the-beaten-path Czech towns, these are two you'll want to pin. Picture Renaissance facades in Telč’s main square and lakeside serenity in Třeboň, once a royal fishing hub and still lined with historical fishponds that date back to the 14th century. Třeboň is also known for its traditional spa culture — including mud baths that promise to ease everything from arthritis to post-road trip fatigue. We didn’t try one this time, but it’s officially on the list for next round. Welcome to Wine Country: Mikulov Then we rolled into Mikulov, nestled right in the heart of South Moravian wine country. No castle sleepover this time, though the Baroque castle perched on the hill certainly begged for a moment of rubbernecking. We checked into Pension Baltazar, a cozy spot right in town, and spent the next few days sipping beer and wine, eating well, and climbing Svatý Kopeček (Holy Hill) — a grassy rise overlooking the town that rewards you with sweeping vineyard views and a peaceful little chapel at the summit. Mikulov has long been a cultural crossroads — once a key stop along trade routes between Brno and Vienna, and historically home to a vibrant Jewish community. That legacy still echoes through its cobbled lanes and quiet corners. But today, it’s all about good wine, slow afternoons, and the kind of views that make you want to press pause. Mikulov became our home base for exploring the region, and it turned out to be the perfect launchpad for a few wildly unexpected day trips. Muzeum Železné Opony, Valtice Czechia A Cold War Time Warp and a Surprise Border Hop On one of our day trips from Mikulov, we set out in search of the Kolonáda Reistna, a neoclassical monument we'd seen mentioned online, with directions that were roughly equivalent to, “Drive south until the vineyards run out or the road signs start speaking German.” As we cruised along a particularly empty stretch of road near Valtice, things took a turn. One minute we were admiring the landscape, the next we were squinting at a hulking, half-ruined building that looked like it had been plucked straight from a Cold War film set. Razor wire? Check. Creaky guard box beside the road? Check. Giant pole with no obvious purpose? Triple check. We stopped, puzzled, and peered into the eerily quiet open guard box — a perfect spot to imagine being interrogated by a ghostly border patrol officer with a penchant for rubber stamping paper visas. The building had no signs, no people, no hint of life. Just an air of abandonment and unease, as if everyone simply got up one day and never came back. It turns out we had accidentally stumbled upon the Muzeum Železné Opony — the Iron Curtain Museum — though nothing about it from the outside suggested it was anything other than a forgotten Cold War relic. It was closed (or hiding), and the whole place looked less like a museum and more like an accidental time portal. To make things even more surreal, in our dazed state of post-Cold-War confusion, we realized we had — without noticing — ever-so-slightly driven over the Austrian border. This is, as it happens, a big no-no in the world of car rental agreements. Cue a swift, slightly panicked U-turn, accompanied by a muttered apology to our car insurance policy, and a quick scan to make sure no Austrian customs agents were about to descend from the hills. Kolonáda Reistna, Valtice Czechia Kolonáda Reistna: A Monument, a March, and a Musical Surprise With TicTack safely back on Czech soil, we parked near the now clearly-abandoned border gate and found a crumbling old road leading uphill. Naturally, we followed it. After a short, quiet walk (interrupted only by the occasional rustle of wind through Iron Curtain ghosts), we reached the Kolonáda Reistna. This neoclassical colonnade sits dramatically on the border ridge flanked by trees on one side and a stunning rolling hills view on the other. Commissioned in the early 1800s by Prince Johann I of Liechtenstein as a memorial to his father and brothers, it’s all very Roman Empire meets Downton Abbey — grand, symmetrical, and inexplicably perched in what felt like the middle of nowhere. Fun fact: during the Cold War, the colonnade doubled as a military lookout for border patrol. Because nothing says “national defense” like posting guards beside a neoclassical monument meant to honour your family tree. But the real surprise came moments after we arrived. Out of nowhere, a group of Czech high school students bounded up the hill, plopped down a Bluetooth speaker, and — without warning — broke into a full choreographed routine to "We Go Together" from Grease . It was, without question, the strangest ambush we’ve ever experienced. There, under the watchful eyes of Liechtenstein marble busts, teens in Converse sneakers swung and shimmied across the grass in front of this ancient monument. One moment we were pondering war, peace, and the weight of history — the next, we were in a full-on 1950s musical finale. Pure magic. Lednice, Czechia Day Trip: Lednice, the Versailles of the East Another one of our favourite day trips from here was to Lednice, the Versailles of the East, because honestly? That’s exactly what it felt like. The sprawling estate at Lednice was once the Liechtenstein family’s summer playground, transformed over the centuries into an over-the-top Neo-Gothic wonder. You’ve got a riverside castle, extravagant gardens, a full-blown minaret tucked into the grounds (no, really), and if you don’t want to walk to the minaret, you can take a lazy river cruise that floats you past landscaped lawns and romantic ruins. We wandered for hours — no crowds, no stress, just a pleasant kind of beauty around every corner. Lednice isn’t just for castle-chasers — it’s for anyone who wants to walk through a storybook and not be entirely sure where the pages end and real life begins. Farewell TicTack — and Czechia, For Now With a slightly heavy heart, we said goodbye to TicTack in Brno, Czechia’s second-largest city and our final stop — but only in a logistical sense. We didn’t linger in Brno, as we were catching a train straight to Vienna, but it served us well as the perfect point to wrap up our 10-day Czech road trip. And what a road trip it was. Before this journey, I’ll admit besides Prague and Český Krumlov, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. But what we did discover far exceeded our expectations. Driving in Czechia turned out to be a breeze — great roads, spectacular scenery, respectful drivers, and Google Maps that didn’t lead us astray once (not even down a goat path or through a farmer’s yard — looking at you, Crete). The highways are extremely well-maintained, and the scenic countryside routes made even our slowest, most meandering days feel like part of a grand adventure. What surprised us most, though, was just how underrated Czechia is as a travel destination once you step outside Prague’s postcard frame. This country is rich in history, dotted with fairytale towns, and filled with absolutely stunning landscapes— from spa cities to vineyard valleys to castle-dotted horizons. If you're even thinking about exploring Central Europe, Czechia deserves a spot on your list. I’d go back in a heartbeat. Up Next: The Full Itinerary Breakdown Ready to retrace our route or plan your own Czech adventure? In the final post of this series, I’ll break down our full 10-day Czechia road trip itinerary — complete with where we stayed, what we loved, what we’d do differently, and must-see stops in every region we visited. Whether you’re dreaming of castles, countryside drives, or slow afternoons in wine country, you’ll have everything you need to start planning your own unforgettable journey through Czechia. Plus, I’ll include a free downloadable PDF so you can save or share your trip inspiration anytime. See you in Part 3!
- Part 1: A 10-Day Czechia Road Trip Itinerary: Prague, Castles & Spa Towns
Cesky Krumlov (Yes, It’s More Than Just Prague) Let me start with this: Prague is as beautiful and atmospheric as everyone says — and as crowded. We’d been before, years ago, when our teenage son was still willing to travel with us (or at least tolerate our presence in public). We did the classics: gawked at the Astronomical Clock, shuffled across the Charles Bridge with the rest of humanity, and on a whim, climbed a massive staircase on the other side of the river, assuming it led to a peaceful public garden. It didn’t. It led us straight into the Prague Castle grounds via an accidentally unlocked gate. By the time we realized we were inside a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we’d basically given ourselves a self-guided palace tour — free of charge and entirely unintentional. Getting Lost (On Purpose) in Prague This time around, we skipped the climb and let ourselves get happily lost in the cobblestone lanes of Old Town Prague, surrounded by gothic spires, intricate stonework, and centuries-old buildings that practically dare you to look up. If you’re putting together a Prague itinerary, don’t worry about ticking off every must-see. Sometimes, the magic is just in letting the city happen to you — one crooked alleyway and surprise courtyard at a time. Meet TicTack, Our Noble Steed That was the name we gave our compact, blue-and-white rental — a tiny vehicle with the heart of a champion and the turning radius of a shopping cart. Armed with Google Maps and cautious optimism, we navigated Prague’s labyrinth of roads during rush hour and finally found the outskirts of the city, where traffic thinned and the Czech countryside opened up like a green fairytale. Into the Woods (and the 14th Century) Now, you might be wondering where we’re headed. Our first real stop? Karlovy Vary — also known by its old German name, Karlsbad, because this famous spa town in Czechia has been luring wealthy bathers and suspiciously enthusiastic physicians since the 14th century. Legend has it that Charles IV himself (yes, the Holy Roman Emperor, not your friend’s cousin from Brno) discovered the thermal springs while out hunting. The story goes that his injured hunting dog stumbled into a hot geyser and came out miraculously healed. Naturally, Charles did what any ruler with access to architects and gold would do: he built a spa empire around it. We stayed for two nights so we could explore the colonnades, try the famous spa experiences, and wander the forested walking trails that wrap around the hills. It’s the kind of place that rewards slow travel — and rewards your joints, too. Not Here for the Legends — Here for the Baths But me? I wasn’t here to soak in medieval legends. I was here for the baths, the colonnades, and the kind of mineral water that smells faintly like eggs and promises to fix everything from indigestion to heartbreak. From City Streets to Countryside Calm We didn’t expect much from the drive. Honestly, we figured it would just be a means to an end — get out of the city, find the spa town, maybe stop for coffee (maybe…yes, stop for coffee!). But then the landscape started doing that quiet, scenic thing that doesn’t shout “Look at me!” — it just gently reminds you that green fields and sleepy villages are sometimes exactly what you need. The road was mostly flat and easygoing, like a nicely ironed shirt — smooth, neat, and oddly comforting. Small farms and compact villages popped up now and then, and the whole thing felt strangely meditative and calming. Then, just before we were lulled into a pastoral bucolic trance, the road dipped — dramatically — into a thick, forested gully. Trees tightened around us. Curves sharpened. And then, just beyond the bend, something magical started to happen: rooftops. Ornate, colourful, almost storybook-like. It was like entering a different century through a side door. Karlovy Vary: Fancy Water, Fancier Buildings Karlovy Vary is the kind of place where you half-expect a string quartet to start playing as you round a corner. It’s all pastel facades, elegant columns, and cobblestone promenades running alongside the Teplá River — like a postcard that somehow came to life. The town smells faintly of sulfur and pastries, and oddly, that works. Tiny Mugs and Thermal Sips One of the main activities here? Drinking warm mineral water from tiny spouted mugs that look like teapots made for dolls. Locals swear by the health benefits — everything from better digestion to eternal youth. We stuck to a few cautious sips and didn’t transform into spa zombies, so we’ll call that a win. Public drinking fountains offer the spa water for free and you’ll find them dotted throughout the town. Just grab one of those doll-sized mugs from a souvenir stand and sip like a local. When Hollywood Shows Up in a Bathrobe Film buffs might recognize Karlovy Vary from Casino Royale — though it cheekily doubled as Montenegro. Every summer, the town trades its bathrobes for black-tie at the Karlovy Vary International Film Festival, where movie stars and spa-goers cross paths in a way that feels bizarrely natural. If your trip lines up with July, check their official schedule - I’m told it’s worth planning around. And if cinema isn’t your thing, there's also a Jazz Festival, food and wine events, and year-round spa escapes if you’re in the mood for a mud wrap and some questionable tea. Living the Fairytale at Hluboká nad Vltavou Leaving the lush green gully of Karlovy Vary, we set off towards our next fairytale experience: a castle stay at Hotel Štekl in Hluboká nad Vltavou. Pronouncing the town's name might be a challenge, but staying here is nothing short of magical. Our room was stunning, offering a panoramic view over the valley that made me feel like Rapunzel (sans the long hair). If you've ever dreamed of feeling like royalty, this is the place to do it. Not only is Hotel Štekl a castle in its own right, but it also neighbours the grand Hluboká Castle, to which we had complete access. Each evening, as day tourists departed, we took our wine glasses and bottle of wine, strolled over to the main castle grounds to watch the sun set over the valley, feeling every bit the lord and lady of the manor. A Brief History of Hluboká Castle Hluboká Castle's origins date back to the mid-13th century when it was established as a royal guard castle. Over the centuries, it underwent several transformations: from a Gothic fortress to a Renaissance chateau under the Lords of Hradec, and later to a Baroque residence. In the 19th century, inspired by England's Windsor Castle, Prince Johann Adolf II of Schwarzenberg commissioned a Romantic Neo-Gothic reconstruction, resulting in the castle's current fairy-tale appearance. Surrounded by a vast English-style park, Hluboká Castle is now considered one of the most beautiful castles in Czechia. A Day Trip to Český Krumlov: Where Fairytales Go to Retire From Hluboká, we made the easy day trip to Český Krumlov, another town that looks like it was built by set designers for a fantasy movie. We’d been before (shoutout to Rick Steves for the original tip), but it’s so charming that we couldn’t resist a return visit. And here’s a tip for you, if you’re driving, parking can be tricky in high season, so we recommend arriving early or staying overnight so you can enjoy the quiet mornings. Just when you think you’ve seen the most picturesque village possible, you drive 30 minutes and find yourself somewhere even more storybook-perfect. Český Krumlov is wrapped in the bends of the Vltava River, giving the whole town a natural moat. The 13th-century castle perched above the old town has its own bear moat (yes, really), and the colourful buildings, cobblestone streets, and cute little cafés are practically begging to be part of your photos — or your screensaver. In the summer, you can even float down the river in an inflatable raft, drink in hand, dragging your cooler behind you like a proper river pirate. And don’t worry, if you run out of beer or wine, just pull over to the banks of the river and you’ll find entrepreneurial locals have set up make-shift wooden bars to supply you with all the Czechvar beer, wine and ice cream you could possibly need to complete your rafting adventures. It’s the kind of place where time slows down and your iPhone camera fills up way too quickly. A Little History on Český Krumlov First mentioned in 1253, Český Krumlov flourished under the Rosenberg family during the Renaissance. Its architecture is a patchwork of medieval, Baroque, and Renaissance styles, all remarkably preserved thanks to the town's designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town remained relatively untouched during World War II, allowing its original charm to survive the 20th century intact. But the real surprise came in the second half of our trip — wine country. South Moravia’s rolling vineyards, baroque palaces, and medieval towns offered a totally different side of Czechia, and we fell in love all over again. What’s Next: Wine Country & Aristocratic Surprises Coming up in Part 2: We didn’t expect the Czech countryside to give us Versailles vibes, but South Moravia had other plans. Rolling vineyards, fairytale towns, and one aristocratic surprise after another — stay tuned for Part 2!