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Is Naples Safe to Visit? Here’s What I Discovered (and Why I’m Glad I Went Anyway)

Naples outdoor cafe surrounded by ancient ruins and classic architecture
Naples cafe surrounded by ancient ruins and classic architecture

There’s a strange thrill in telling people you’re heading to Naples. Watch their expressions shift from polite curiosity to thinly veiled panic, as if you’ve just said you’re holidaying in a live volcano.


“Oh, Naples,” they say, in the same tone you'd use for a friend who’s just announced they’re dating a known heartbreaker. “Are you... sure?”


The warnings come thick and fast: It’s dangerous! It’s dirty! The traffic is apocalyptic! You’ll be robbed blind! The garbage situation is... well, let’s just say no one’s winning any municipal awards. By the time everyone’s finished painting Naples as a post-war wasteland, you half expect tumbleweeds to roll down Via dei Tribunali.


Forget the headlines. Naples isn’t dangerous, it’s just misunderstood. Here’s why this gritty, glorious city belongs on your itinerary.


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The Great Naples Anxiety


I’ll admit it, by the time my girlfriends and I stepped off the train in Naples during our 2023 Italian adventure, I was bracing for impact. We’d heard it all: tales of pickpockets with PhD-level skills, and traffic that looks more like an adrenaline sport than a transportation system, and a general atmosphere of barely contained chaos.


What we found instead was a city that seemed to wink at us, as if it knew exactly what we’d been told and was having a quiet laugh about it.



First Impressions


What hit me first wasn’t the dirt or danger; it was the unfiltered authenticity of Naples. Yes, there’s graffiti. A lot of it. But what the doom-and-gloom brigade doesn’t mention is that much of it is surprisingly beautiful. Naples doesn’t hide its rough edges; it shows them off like battle scars that tell a story worth listening to.


Outdoor café in Naples’ Spanish Quarter, surrounded by historic buildings and graffiti-covered walls
Naples: Late afternoon in the Spanish Quarter — gritty, alive, and buzzing with local life.

The traffic? Absolutely nuts! But not without a strange rhythm. Neapolitan drivers have elevated the art of “making it work” to a level that feels almost choreographed. They flow around each other like water around rocks, honking not in anger but in a kind of automotive jazz.



The Francesca Factor


Our accommodation choice turned out to be a happy accident. Unico Relais, a boutique hotel tucked into the historic centre, became our peaceful retreat from the Neapolitan buzz. But the real highlight? Francesca.


She didn’t just run the place, she hosted us in the truest sense of the word. Need dinner recommendations? She had three, colour-coded by vibe. Confused about getting to Pompeii? She wrote out instructions about which train to get and where to get off. Worried about safety? She smiled gently, the way you would at someone asking if Italy really has pizza.


If you're planning a trip to Naples and want a stay that’s central, welcoming, and effortlessly stylish, I highly recommend booking Unico Relais. You can check rates and availability here: Unico Relais.



Why Every Back Alley is a Restaurant


Here’s a travel tip Rick Steves would definitely back: in Naples, if you see a tiny spot packed with locals, don’t walk past. Walk in.


We developed a foolproof system:

  1. Spot a restaurant with no empty tables.

  2. Wait casually nearby.

  3. Politely pounce when someone leaves.


    Aperol spritz and white wine served at a small café table in Naples, Italy
    Proof that the best aperitivo in Naples doesn’t need a view, just good company and a table that opens

This led us to some of the most unforgettable meals of our entire Italy trip. Not because the places were fancy (they weren’t), and not because of Michelin stars (none in sight), but because of the pride in every dish. It felt like someone’s nonna was quietly judging the chef in the back.


The pizza alone justified the trip. Naples doesn’t just claim it invented pizza, it acts like it, then proves it with every charred, gloriously floppy slice.


Authentic Neapolitan pizza with charred crust and fresh toppings on a plate in Naples
Naples, wher you'll find authentic Neapolitan pizza with charred crust and fresh toppings on a plate with no regrets


The Myth of Danger


Let’s address the elephant: is Naples dangerous? Well... it’s a city. And cities come with caveats. But the melodramatic warnings we’d heard were mostly rooted in outdated info and exaggerated stereotypes.


We walked around the historic centre, camera in hand, and felt safe. The biggest danger? A gelato-induced existential crisis when faced with 17 flavours and only one stomach.



The Practical Bits


If you’re considering a visit, here are a few tips to help plan your trip to Naples:


Where to Stay

We loved Unico Relais for its unbeatable location, charming room, and Francesca’s insider knowledge. Stay somewhere central. Naples is best explored on foot.


Getting Around

The train to Pompeii is crowded, chaotic, and slightly sweaty but it’s part of the experience. Buy tickets in advance, keep your belongings close, and prepare to get super cozy with your fellow passengers.


What to Do

Besides the obvious (pizza, gelato, more pizza, and the archaeological sites), give yourself time to just wander. Naples doesn’t reveal itself in guidebook bullet points. It shows up in side streets, handwritten menus, and the rhythm of daily life.



The Real Naples


Naples isn’t trying to win you over. It doesn’t tidy up for tourists or tone down its personality. It’s a bit wild, a bit worn-in, and absolutely itself.


Pedestrians walking under a yellow archway in Naples, with laundry hanging and market stalls nearby
Walking through the heart of Naples feels like entering someone’s open-air living room, laundry, scooters, saints, and all.

In a world of polished, pre-packaged travel experiences, Naples is real, graffiti and all.

The graffiti? It’s not vandalism. It’s urban storytelling. The traffic? Not chaos, but choreography.The danger? Mostly reputation, not reality.



The Verdict


Would I return to Naples? Absolutely. In fact, next time I might base myself in Sorrento and day-trip into the city but that’s a plan for another post.


Sometimes, the best travel advice is to ignore the travel advice.


The places everyone warns you about? Those might be the ones that surprise you most. The destinations that seem to have nothing to offer? They might give you everything you didn’t know you were looking for.


Naples reminded me that travel isn’t about box-ticking, it’s about being open to the idea that what you think you know might be completely wrong... in the best possible way.


So if you’ve been hesitating, wondering whether Naples is “too much”, I hope this nudges you toward yes. You might just fall in love with the chaos, too.


And if that’s not worth the price of a train ticket, I don’t know what is.



Have you ever ignored travel warnings and discovered something amazing? Share your story in the comments. I’d love to hear about the destinations that surprised you most.

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