Why Rome in October Beats Summer Every Time (Yes, Even at Halloween)

The Roman Colosseum in the magic month of October

After six visits to Italy over nearly forty years, I thought I had Rome down to a science.

My first time? The summer of 1988. I was 18, sweating through Milan and pretending I knew how to drink espresso properly. Since then, there have been family trips with my husband and son (2010–2016), a girls’ escape in May 2023, and a few others sprinkled in for good measure. And every time, I planned for what the guidebooks and glossy magazines insisted was “peak season,” convinced that summer was the time to experience the Eternal City.

Then came October 2024, and everything I thought I knew about Rome quietly collapsed, in the best possible way.

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Trevi Fountain in the height of summer

The Roman Reality of Summer

Let’s be clear: I’ve never not been awed by Rome. The first time I stood inside the Colosseum, I felt like I’d stumbled onto a Ridley Scott set (minus the CGI and plus 40,000 other tourists). The Pantheon still stops me mid-step every time, and the layers of history here are like a lasagna baked by time itself.

But summer in Rome? That’s a very specific kind of chaos.

Picture this: 35°C+ heat bouncing off ancient cobblestones, gelato melting faster than you can eat it, and lineups snaking around monuments like you’re waiting for Taylor Swift tickets. We spent more time darting into air-conditioned cafés than we did at actual landmarks. And despite our best intentions, by mid-afternoon, we were usually too hot, too tired, and too cranky to care whether we were looking at a Bernini or just a badly parked scooter.

Even in May 2023, on a girls’ trip that was almost ideal, the traffic was so chaotic we literally watched a car and a Vespa collide directly in front of us. No one was hurt, but it felt like the universe was underlining the phrase: “Rome in peak season is not for the faint of heart.”

An old Ford Pickup Truck decorated for Halloween, Rome Italy

We Went for Halloween. Seriously.

For our October 2024 visit, my husband and I decided to test a theory: Would Rome do anything for Halloween? We didn’t have high hopes, maybe a few pumpkin-shaped pastries or the odd themed gelato. What we found instead was low-key festive and oddly delightful.

We stayed at Guesthouse Interno 7 Luxury Rooms, a charming little spot in the Monti district, close enough to walk to everything, but just far enough from the madness of Termini Station to feel like we were in on a secret.

Guesthouse Inferno 7 Luxury Rooms in the Monti District of Rome, Italy

From the moment we arrived, something felt different. The air was crisp but still warm, perfect 22°C afternoons, comfortable evenings, and no heat-induced meltdowns (emotional or gelato-related). For the first time, we wandered without checking how close we were to the nearest shady bench. Rome in October feels like the city has finally unclenched its jaw.

Some shops leaned into the Halloween season with playful window displays, and local kids were out trick-or-treating in full costume. We even visited the Roman Catacombs during Halloween, which made the experience feel appropriately eerie, somewhere between “this is fascinating” and “why does it suddenly feel colder down here?”

The Practical Differences That Actually Matters

You don’t need me to tell you Rome is beautiful. But here’s what no one seems to emphasize enough: Rome in October is practical. Which, let’s face it, is what we really care about when we’re deciding whether or not to schlep across the Atlantic.

Weather

Rome in October = 22°C afternoons and light-jacket evenings. You’ll actually want to be outside. Compare that to July, where every walk feels like a desert trek with nicer architecture.

Crowds

We visited the Trevi Fountain midday, and there were actual moments of low crowds. No elbows, no pushing, no fight for photo angles. October crowd levels felt human again. For once, we set the pace instead of being herded like caffeinated sheep.

Accommodation

Monti in October was a dream. Quieter streets, charming trattorias, and walkability that didn’t feel like a sweaty punishment.  Guesthouse Interno 7 Luxury Rooms hit the sweet spot: affordable, central, and devoid of screaming tour groups in the lobby.

Food

We had dinner at Nannarella. They don’t take reservations, but it’s 100% worth the wait. We sat outside and watched local kids trick-or-treating through the charming neighbourhood of Trastevere while sipping wine and tucking into perfect plates of carbonara. If there’s a better combination of food, setting, and seasonal charm, I haven’t found it.

What to Pack for Rome in October

Packing for October is refreshingly easy:

• Comfortable walking shoes (you’ll do a lot more of it)

• Layers (mornings and evenings can surprise you)

• A light jacket or scarf

• Curiosity, especially if you're a Halloween fan

Bonus tip: Book your accommodation 2–3 months out. You’ll still get shoulder-season pricing, but the best boutique stays fill quickly.

Verdict: October is the Secret Season

I’ve been to Rome half a dozen times, and this was the first trip where the city felt both awe-inspiring and accessible. October offers that rare travel combo: warm but not hot, lively but not chaotic, and atmospheric in a way that’s hard to explain but easy to feel.

You're walking alongside locals, not just fellow tourists. You're taking in historic sites without the rush. And the light in October? Golden hour seems to last all day, ideal if you care about photography, or just enjoy feeling like you’re starring in your own indie film.

Rome’s Piazza del Popolo on a sunny October day, Rome Italy

Ready to Plan Your October Rome Adventure?

If you're thinking about Rome but dreading the summer crush, consider October. You'll avoid the heat, enjoy more space to breathe, and (if you time it right) even catch a bit of spooky charm.

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Have you visited Rome in different seasons? Drop your favourite time to go in the comments, I’d love to hear how it compared.